🥜 In a nutshell: Snowsports in Scotland

Skiing in Scotland? You’d better believe it – Scotland has five main downhill ski centres, with a character a world apart from the Alps or Rockies. Two ski areas (Glencoe Mountain and Nevis Range) are in the West Highlands, while the other three (Cairngorm Mountain, Glenshee Ski Centre and Lecht 2090) are found further east in the Cairngorms.

Additionally, low-level cross-country skiing and high-level ski touring are practised in some areas during good snow conditions, and there are several artificial ski slopes dotted around the country. The smaller, friendly Lowther Hills Ski Club in southern Scotland is unfortunately not operational at the time of writing during the 2023/4 season.

What’s it like?

Given Scotland’s very changeable weather, it’s unsurprising that snow conditions are unreliable. However, we’ve enjoyed fantastic skiing at all of the areas over the years by timing visits carefully – as early as December, and as late as May.

Wind is a near-constant part of a Highland winter, which can strip the snow off exposed ridges but allows it to accumulate in sheltered areas. Skiing is therefore typically carried out in north-facing gullies, often further protected by wooden fencing along the edges of runs. Temperatures are often marginal, with frequent rain events interspersed with snowier or drier periods. Closures due to high winds or lack of snow are fairly common, though it is quite possible to have a long run of good conditions too.

Operations are carried out on a shoestring budget, with mostly ancient lift systems which largely consist of buttons or T-bars. There are a few slow chairlifts dotted around, but certainly none of the bubbles or heated seats which have become common in the Alps! Cairngorm Mountain has the luxury of a (controversial) funicular railway. Given the small ski area sizes, lift pass prices are comparatively high by European standards, to help the lift companies survive barren periods.

On a good weather day, the scenery is as stunning as it is varied, with extensive vistas of snowy mountains, remote glens and even slender sea lochs. The vibe is relaxed, with civilised queuing on busy days and mostly friendly strangers to share a T-bar with.

Ski hire and catering (of varying quality) is available at all of the ski centres. In some cases it is also possible to hire equipment from nearby towns or roadside shops.

Planning a trip

The ski centres’ social media feeds are often a goldmine of information regarding open lifts, runs and likely conditions, and all the ski areas have live webcams showing the slopes. Admittedly, staff member’s goggles can be suspiciously rose-tinted at times, so checking independent mountain weather forecasts such as the 🔗 Mountain Weather Information Service (MWIS) is also recommended.

Locals have the advantage of being able to make last-minute trips when conditions look good. If you have to book a trip well in advance, have a backup plan in case the centre has to close or conditions are unappealing.

Visit midweek during term time to avoid queues for lifts and ski hire. All the centres can be packed at weekends and during school holidays. As with most tourist attractions during busy periods, it pays to arrive early and stay late!