Craigmillar Castle

📌 Craigmillar, City of Edinburgh
★★★★

Edinburgh Castle isn’t the capital’s only hilltop stronghold. Craigmillar Castle sits on high ground a few miles southeast of Edinburgh city centre, slightly less accessible than Edinburgh Castle but still swiftly reachable by local bus (then a pleasant, uphill walk) or car. Once they get there, visitors have much more of a chance of peace and quiet, and there’s plenty to see – for a ruin, at least. A late 14th century tower lies hidden away at the core, probably built for the wealthy, local Preston family. But several phases of expansion, either side of the castle being sold to the Gilmours in 1660, have left a rather more extensive floorplan including multiple ranges (within which Mary Queen of Scots stayed twice), curtain wall, doocot, chapel and courtyard half-filled by trees. One of several staircases leads to the roof of the original tower house, from which there are decent views over the capital, Arthur’s Seat and the Pentland Hills. But the best views of the castle itself are from open parkland on the south side; to reach them, follow paths around the north side of the castle from the car park, soon curving left.